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Lorenzo Lotto

By no means as famous as his contemporary Titian – it was perhaps to escape the domination of Venice by this more celebrated artist that he left that city to pursue his career in Bergamo and Le Marche – Lotto (c.1480–c.1557) is a painter of singular and mysterious beauty. Bird-watchers use the word ‘jizz’ to […]

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The Real Sicily

June 2013 Like other Romantic poets of the early nineteenth century, the poet John Keats, who died in Rome in 1821, was obsessed by the interplay between the world of the imagination and the concrete world of experience. In his ‘Ode on a Grecian Urn’ one of the scenes he describes is a wild dance,

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Giorgio Morandi

February 2013 Sometime about thirty-five years ago a friend gave us a poster of an exhibition in Bologna devoted to the etchings — Le Acqueforti — of Giorgio Morandi. It depicts a disparate group of bottles, vases and jugs lined up on a table. They look at the same time solid and fragile, distinct and

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More on Beaches

December 2011 Learn Italy holidays are nearly always based in cities, but for many north Europeans contact with Italy consists mainly of a stay by the beach. At the end of August huge processions of overloaded family cars from Denmark, Holland, and Belgium toil northwards. What fascinates me is how strange it is that, in

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Principina a Mare

August 2011 I am just back from a week at the Italian seaside with my grandchildren. This is the fourth year we have stayed in self-catering apartments at a small resort on the coast of the Maremma, Tuscany’s malaria-ridden marsh, for centuries known to be ruinously inhospitable: Dante’s Pia Tolomei laments the area’s destructive power

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History and Memory

March 2011 In her book about books, Howard’s End is on the Landing, the novelist Susan Hill starts a section with the following comment: ‘Memory is like a long dark street, illuminated at intervals in a light so bright that it shows up every detail. And then one plunges into the dark stretch again.’    

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The Italian Beach

January 2011 This is the time of year when we are exhorted to dream of summer holidays by the sea. Can anything offer a clearer view of the difference between the Italian and the British frame of mind than the Italian idea of a beautiful beach? Of course, one should not make generalisations about the

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Art Cities

For me many good things have resulted from Learn Italy. First of all I’ve listened to some very clever and knowledgeable tutors, and from them I’ve absorbed the rudiments of art history, at least as it relates to the Italian paintings and sculpture of the middle ages and the Renaissance. Bits and pieces of formerly

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Giotto

As a student I visited Giotto’s Scrovegni Chapel in Padua and in my ignorance I was pretty much unimpressed: all those awkward figures with their tent-like garb and narrow eyes, doing inscrutable biblical things. Coming up in October is the third Learn Italy study holiday in Padua – and some forty-five years later how differently

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